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Writer's pictureIneke Aveline Trek

Secrets to a non-touristy Iceland: road trip itinerary

Updated: Oct 20, 2022


Did I land on earth or on another planet? A question I asked myself not once, but almost every day during our Iceland trip. This island has so many different landscapes and nature phenomena to offer, that can change sight as quickly as in an hour due to Iceland’s extreme climate. It was hard to believe my own eyes sometimes. But even in the pouring rain or harsh wind, I can tell you that every sight was breathtaking!


A canyon in Iceland with a girl sitting on a rock looking at two waterfalls

In this blog post I will share with you all the must-visit places, my 12-day recommended road trip itinerary, useful information about Iceland, and I’ll let you in on a few of the best secrets to avoid tourists!

 

Disclaimer: In this blog post you could encounter some affiliate links, meaning that I receive a small commission if you make a booking or purchase (at no extra cost to you). This helps me to keep creating free resources for my readers. Thank you for your support!

 

Which part of Iceland do you want to visit?


Iceland can easily be divided in three parts to make it easier for you to decide what you want to visit and where you want to go: the Golden Circle, the Ring Road and the Highlands.


The Golden Circle is a 300-km loop (186 miles) in the South that takes you past the most touristy attractions in Iceland. It will give you a good idea of Iceland and it can even be done in one day if you want to. You also won't need a special vehicle for this loop and can just rent the car or camper van that suits you best.


The Ring Road is the main road in Iceland, taking you around the entire island in 1,322 kilometers (821 miles). Most popular attractions are located right next to this asphalt road, making your trip quite easy and everything really accessible.


The Highlands harbour a few of the most exciting sights in Iceland but are quite difficult to reach. You will need a sturdy four-wheel-drive and an adventurous mindset to get there.


In the road trip itinerary below, we'll start with a 9-day trip of the Ring Road covering the whole island, followed by a 3-day trip through the Golden Circle and Highlands for those that can't get enough of Iceland and want to adventure a little more. But first, I will share some useful tips for your road trip.


Strutur in Iceland, a lonely volcano in the Iceland Highlands near Landmannalaugar.

Helpful tips for your Iceland Road Trip


To make sure you have a smooth Iceland road trip, I’ve put together a list of tips that helped us get around.


Always hold on to your car doors when you open them!

Iceland is known for its harsh wind and you wouldn’t be the first one loosing a door. Trust me, you will thank me later!


Check the road conditions before you go

Also due to the weather, some roads can be in bad shape or even closed. You can check road.is for all road conditions and https://vegasja.vegagerdin.is for up to date photos of the F-roads. Regarding the F-roads, it is also best to check upfront if they are open, which you can do here: https://www.road.is/travel-info/condition-and-opening-of-mountain-roads/


Drive carefully

The speed limit in Iceland is 90km/h (56 miles/h) on paved roads, 80km/h (50 miles/h) on gravel roads (if you don’t care about gravel damage to your car) and 30-50km/h (18-31 miles/h) in populated areas. Always be attentive though, because you will encounter a lot of wildlife on the roads (mainly sheep in the summer, but reindeer, birds and other wildlife can be found on the roads as well).

If you don’t have a European sim that works in Iceland, get a local sim card

There are 3 big operators in Iceland: Siminn, Nova and Vodafone. Siminn is said to have the best coverage. For around €21 you can get 10GB of data to use.


Camping card

Wild camping is unfortunately forbidden in Iceland so if you plan on camping (with a tent, a car or a camper van), you are obliged to stay on camping sites. If you’re staying long enough or you are a big family, it can be handy to get a camping card. Note that this card is not valid everywhere and that you often have to pay extra for showers or electricity.


Camper van of Indie Campers in Vestrahorn or Stokksnes in Iceland during the midnight sunset

Don’t trust opening hours on Google Maps

Opening hours are more often not up to date than that they are up to date. You’ll just have to roll with this one.


Always take provisions in your car for at least 2-3 days

Iceland only has a small population, meaning you won’t find a town (and restaurant / food truck / supermarket) after every corner. Every town however has a supermarket, so make sure to stack up on food so you won’t have to skip stops because you’re hungry.

The cheapest super market is Bonus, the one where you can find the most supplies is Kronan.

Always check the weather

Due to strong winds, some off-the-beaten paths or parking spots can sometimes be dangerous, so definitely keep an eye on the weather forecast: https://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/areas/

Also, you don’t want to miss out on the Northern Lights if you’re there in the right season (September-March): https://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/

No cash except for tips

In Iceland you can pay everything by card, literally! In our three weeks there, we didn’t once needed cash. The only thing you can’t pay by card is the tip. So I would suggest to get some cash upon arrival just for tipping.


Tap water is free

In every restaurant you get a big can of free tap water. And if you don’t, just ask for it!


The emergency number is 112

Just in case.


Hvéradalir sulfur geothermal area in Iceland with a girl standing in the sulfur gasses.

Fun fact: Iceland is one of the only two places in the world that is mosquito-free. This is probably due to the rough climate and multiple freeze periods.


12-day road trip itinerary


Day 1: Waterfall heaven


You will arrive in Reykjavík or Keflavík Airport from where you will pick up your rental car or camper van. Depending on the time zone you’re coming from and how late your flight arrives, you can either decide to start day 1 straight away, take a nap first, or do the itinerary of day 1 and 2 in one day. Up to you to see what feels best.


Stop 1: Selfoss

Since Iceland doesn’t have many restaurants and you might spend more time in a place than you anticipated, it’s important to stack up on food and snacks. Cooking yourself is also a great way to save money in Iceland. So on the way to your next destination, make a little stop in one of the supermarkets in Selfoss for food, snacks, water and may be some dry shampoo.


Stop 2: Seljalandsfoss & Gljúfrabúi

Walking behind a waterfall you say? Yes, you can literally walk all around Seljalandsfoss and have the most amazing view from behind it when the sky turns orange around sunset. And only 5-10 minutes further to the left of the waterfall, you can find the spectacular Gljúfrabúi in a cave. Make sure to wear a raincoat and even some rain trousers though, because both waterfalls will give you a rain shower for sure!


Seljalandsfoss waterfall in Iceland during the midnight sun with a girl standing underneath the powerful waterfall.
Seljalandsfoss

Stop 3: Skógafoss

Your next stop will take you to one of the most imposing waterfalls of Iceland, Skógafoss. Standing next to this 60m (197 feet) drop will leave you speechless (wet!) and completely in awe when you’re lucky enough to catch a rainbow as well. Again, a raincoat is non-negotiable!


If this is where you want to end your first day and you plan on camping, you can stay at Skógafoss. In case you need a hotel, I’d recommend you to drive further to Vik since the next stops will be not far from there and it’s a lovely town. Good places for dinner and overnight stays further below!


Day 2: Black beaches & puffins


After a first day filled with diverse and incredible waterfalls (and may be a little jetlag), make sure to start your second day right with a coffee from the creative Skool Beans coffee shop.

Stop 1: Dyrhóleay Nature Reserve

Looking for a staggering view over Iceland’s black beaches? Look no further. A short (but at some points steep) hike will bring you to the Dyrhóleay peninsula with views of a massive rock arch, moody black beaches below, glaciers and a lighthouse. Oh and it’s paradise for bird watchers.


Reynisfjara Black Beach in Iceland with a girl sitting on the black basalt columns watching the rough waves of the sea.
Reynisfjara

Stop 2: Reynisfjara Black Beach

One of my favourite stops in Iceland is Reynisfjara. Even though it has kind of a moody vibe, there’s so much beauty to spot. The black basalt columns are formed from lava during eruptions and are quite impressive to watch. Combine that with a rough sea, rocks towering out of that sea and cute little puffins flying around and you’ve got yourself a great place to stay and wander.


Check out my Ultimate guide & itinerary to Iceland for places where you can be so close to the puffins that you can take amazing photos even with your phone!


Stop 3: Vík

To end the day, you will have your first encounter with a small and cosy town in Iceland. Like all towns in Iceland, there is not soo much to do but to have coffee at the creative Skool Beans coffee shop, have dinner in Smiðjan Brugghús or The Soup Company and of course visit the picturesque Vík I Myrdal Church, where you’ll have a great view of the town.


Vík is a town with more options to stay the night, with Hotel Vík I Myrdal and Puffin Hotel as solid choices. Or if you are camping, there’s Vik camping.



Day 3: Waterfall canyons & glaciers


This will be a big day with a lot of distance to cover so make sure to start your day early.


Stop 1: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

One of those easy to reach but oh-so-beautiful canyons you won’t expect to see until the very last step you take. This 3km (1.9 miles) roundtrip to Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon is quite the easy walk and will give you a spectacular view of the Mögárfoss Waterfall and the spot in the canyon where different rivers and creeks join each other. Nature here is at its most fragile though, so sometimes they close this canyon so nature can restore itself more easily.


The lush green Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon with wild river in Iceland during a moody rainy day.
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

Stop 2: Svartifoss Waterfall

Surrounded by dark lava basalt columns, Svartifoss is not only a beautiful 20m (66 feet) tall waterfall to visit, the path leading there will also bring you past three other waterfalls, making your hike anything but boring. If you’re short on time though, you can skip this one and check out the waterfall on the way to Stuðlagil Canyon, which is also surrounded by basalt columns (see below).


Stop 3: Svínafellsjökull Glacier

Seeing a glacier from up close was a first for me and seeing how large of a part that probably already melted was daunting. Svínafellsjökull Glacier is an outlet glacier of the large Vatnajökull with an impressive “wall” and in the winter perfect for glacier hiking. This is one to not miss on your Iceland itinerary.


Svínafellsjökull glacier in Iceland with a girl sitting before the wall of ice staring at the fog covering the gletsjer on a moody midnight.
Svínafellsjökull glacier

Stop 4: Fjallsárlón

Fjallsárlón is a glacial lagoon where Fjallsjökull, the Southern part of the famous Vatnajökull glacier, touches the water and leaves behind drifting icebergs. Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Iceland and the second largest of Europe. Needless to say the view is spectacular.


Stop 5: Jökulsárlón & Diamond Beach

Diamonds are a girls best friend. Well boys, at Diamond Beach you can find diamonds bigger than yourself! Vatnajökull glacial diamonds are floating along the coastline and wash up on the shore via the beautiful Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. From either parking lot you can walk to the beach and the lagoon. Take gloves and a hat as the wind can be very cold!


Diamond black beach in Iceland with a girl standing in the middle of huge ice blocks melted from the glacier
Diamond Beach

Stop 6: Höfn

Höfn is besides Reykjavík the only other place that I’d say is food paradise in Iceland. It has so many (for a town in Iceland at least) cosy and delicious restaurants that it’s hard to choose where to go! Solid choices are Kaffehörnet, Otto Matur & Drykkur and Pakkhus.


For your overnight, 'camping Höfn' has all the amenities you need and the people are friendly! If you’re looking for a hotel, Seljavellir Guesthouse is said to be nice.


Day 4: Towering mountains and fjords


Today too, you’ll cover a lot of distance with the car, but the views are so stunning that you won’t notice. And at the end of the day, you’ll be able to stretch your legs hiking to a beautiful waterfall.


Stop 1: Vestrahorn

Have you ever been to a place that is just totally different the next hour? Vestrahorn is one of those places that can change quickly and never has the same view even if you’d come there every day for the next year. The water can be a mirror or really rough. The mountain can be towering above you or hiding in a tunnel-like cloud. The sunbeams can try catching you or the moody vibes will. No matter the circumstances though, this place is always worth a visit.


Vestrahorn or Stokksness in Iceland during the midnight sun with a calm sea and waves and a girl standing at the coastline watching the mountain peaks and sunset or sunrise.
Vestrahorn

Stop 2: East Fjords

This is not just one stop, you’ll want to stop every 5 minutes to enjoy a waterfall alongside the road, mountains towering from behind every bend, coves that make for a beautiful view. The East Fjords are in my opinion the best part of the Ring Road around Iceland and you should take time to drive through it.


Stop 3: Hengifoss & Litlanesfoss

After being in the car for so long, it will feel good to stretch your legs for a double waterfall hike. This hike is beautiful from all sides, with a canyon with the waterfalls at one side and a huge lake with hills and snowy mountains on the other.


The first waterfall you’ll encounter is Litlanesfoss, which is surrounded by black lava basalt columns. You won’t be able to see it (unless you have a drone), but if the water is flowing hard enough, this waterfall has the shape of a heart. The second waterfall is Hengifoss, the third highest waterfall in Iceland that stands 128m (420 feet) tall, and is quite impressive since it is encircled by basaltic layers with in between, thin, red layers of clay. You can see this one from the parking lot, but believe me when I say, it’s worth it to hike all the way up there.


Litlanesfoss waterfall in Iceland in the form of a heart
Litlanesfoss

A great place to stay either for camping or in one of the guesthouses is Hengifoss Guesthouse. The people are so friendly, the shower is amazing and spacious, there’s electricity and they offer a delicious homemade breakfast in their cosy cafe.


Looking for more information on each place, such as accessibility, exact coordinates, hikes, best time to visit, opening hours and entrance fees? Get my Ultimate Itinerary and Guide to Iceland where you can find all of these and Google Maps links to start driving straight away.


Day 5: The results of erupted volcanoes and melting glaciers


Witnessing waterfalls and canyons formed by the second biggest glacier of Europe, canyons surrounded by lava remnants, and how Iceland harnesses volcanic power to create natural energy. You’ve got a busy day ahead with lots of distance to cover, but don’t be afraid to prioritise certain attractions in your planning.

Stop 1: Stuðlagil Canyon

Okay, so by now you are familiar with the black basalt columns in Iceland, but are you prepared to be wowed once more? Stuðlagil canyon is completely made up of basalt columns and is therefore another truly unique place in Iceland that should not be missing in your itinerary. In case you didn’t visit Svartifoss waterfall, you’ll also be passing a waterfall surrounded by basalt columns on the way to the canyon.


Stuðlagil river canyon in Iceland with basalt columns formed by lava
Stuðlagil Canyon

Stop 2: Dettifoss & Selfoss

Ready to see one of the most powerful waterfalls of Europe? With a height of 44m (144 feet) and a width of 100m (330 feet), Dettifoss is said to be the number one in terms of power after the Rhine Falls in Switzerland. A little further up, you can also visit Selfoss (the waterfall, not the city), where the river falls first before heading over to Dettifoss. This waterfall has the shape of a horseshoe bend with many small waterfalls and is very pretty to watch.


Stop 3: Víti Crater & Krafla Vulcano

Only a 15m (50 feet) walk from the parking lot and you can already admire the full size of the Víti Crater, which in my opinion was a little disappointing. But it’s so easily reachable and driving through the Krafla area is quite nice because you’re driving through thermal landscapes and past the Krafla Power Plant where Iceland harnesses the natural energy coming from its volcanic landscapes. Therefore, I’ve kept it in the itinerary. If you’re sort on time however, I’d leave it out.


Fun fact: Most houses and buildings in Iceland are heated through geothermal or hydro-electrical means, making Iceland a leading country when it comes to sustainable energy.

Víti volcano crater lake in Iceland that has a blue color and is easily reachable.
Víti Crater

Stop 4: Mývatn Lake and Geothermal Area

Mývatn Lake and the geothermal area around it are both beautiful to see from your car window on the way to Húsavík but I wouldn’t spend much time here. If you’re really interested in a geothermal area, I would suggest you to add the Highlands to your itinerary. However, if you don’t have time to add the Highlands, then this area can be a good alternative. Here’s an article that can help you explore this area better.


Some people stop here to take a dip in the Mývatn Nature Baths, but I didn’t, so I can’t provide you with an honest opinion here.


Stop 5: Húsavík

Húsavík will be a little busier than you are used to from little fishing towns in Iceland, and that’s because a lot of people come here to go on a whale watching trip. The surrounding views of the snowy mountains, lupines and Sea are also quite beautiful to watch from one of the delicious restaurants. I can recommend dinner on the terrace of Gamli Baukur or Salka Restaurant.


If you’re looking for a camping site, I would recommend a camping 23km away from Húsavík, Camping 66.12 north. Post-Plaza Guesthouse is a good choice of hotel.


A humpback whale showing his tail during whale watching in Húsavík
Whale watching in Húsavík

Day 6: Encounter with the whales


It's going to be such an exciting day today! Your (first) encounter with whales, being out at sea admiring puffins in their natural habitat, visiting a mythical waterfall that has inspired so many tales and a relaxing city visit to round up.


Stop 1: Whale watching


The number one thing to do in Húsavík, is go whale watching.


This was actually one of the highlights during my Iceland trip. Even though I can’t guarantee you to see whales, your chances here are pretty good between May and October due to the location of the bay where a wide variety of water sources comes together, making it the perfect place to feed for whales.


To optimise your chances further, choose a fast boat because they can switch locations faster if a whale has been spotted.





Whale watching with a fast boat in Húsavík and a humpback whale showing its tail with mountains in the background and people in the front.
Whale watching with a fast boat in Húsavík

Stop 2: Goðafoss

With a nickname like “Waterfall of the Gods” and origin in the river Skjálfandafljót that runs through a 7000-year-old lava field, Goðafoss has something mythical. No wonder this place was an inspiration for so many folklore tales in Iceland. If you’re up for a short hike, you can visit this waterfall from both sides, which I do recommend.


Stop 3: Akureyri City

In Iceland, there are only two big cities with their own airport and hospital. Akureyri is, next to Reykjavík, the second largest and a good place to do some shopping, stroll through the streets or have something to eat. Bryggjan or Strikið are good options, the latter also has a terrace with a view.


To sleep, K16 Apartments are good value for money. Campsite Hamrar is also recommended with all necessary amenities.



Day 7: North to West Iceland


Today will be a day that is mainly focused on covering a lot of distance since this side of Iceland is less interesting. I suggest to have a good brunch in Akureyri before leaving. Snæfellsnes Peninsula at the end of your route, will be worth it.


For hot spring lovers, get my Ultimate Itinerary and Guide to Iceland to find a hidden gem along the way where it’s still possible to have the hot spring completely to yourself. The guide also includes other remote hot springs and non-touristy gems around Iceland.


Stop 1: Kirkjufellsfoss & Kirkjufell Mountain

This is your first stop at the beautiful Snæfellsnes Peninsula. After spending all day in the car, it will be nice to stretch your legs at the stunning Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, which is only a short walk from the parking lot where you’ll probably encounter a few sheep along the way. What makes the view here so spectacular, and attracts so many photographers, is the Kirkjufell Mountain in the background.


Lush green Kirkjufellsfoss and Kirkjufell Mountain with a waterfall and lake.
Kirkjufellsfoss & Mountain

Stop 2: Grundarfjörður

Grundarfjörður, right next to Kirkjufellsfoss and mountain, is a little town where you can have dinner and/or stack up on food for the remaining days of your trip.


In terms of camping, I’d suggest driving 23km further to Olafsvik camping. Kirkjufell Guesthouse and Apartments is a solid hotel choice.



Day 8: Snaefellsnes Peninsula


Today, you’ll discover the other side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula before heading back in the direction of Reykjavík.


Stop 1: Arnarstapi

After spending all day in the car yesterday, you might like an easy hike along the coastline between Arnarstapi and Hellnar, to enjoy different rock formations, arches, birds and views of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. You can also just enjoy the rock formations located 100m (330 feet) from the parking lot and skip the hike.


Búðakirkja Budir church in the middle of nowhere Iceland with mountains and looming moody clouds surrounding it.
Búðakirkja

Stop 2: Búðakirkja

Búðakirkja (Budir) is a small church located in wild open lava fields, making it the perfect minimalistic object to be photographed in the rough nature of Iceland. Its black color is also the perfect contrast against the white clouds looming over the beautiful mountains towering behind it. You probably won’t spend much time here, but for a photographer it’s a nice little detour.


Stop 3: Ytri Tunga

Okay, so you’ve seen a lot of birds, sheep roaming Iceland, whales (hopefully jumping out of the water or showing their tale) and may be some reindeer if you’re lucky. Now, let’s add some cute little (or big) seals to that list. Quietly though, because Ytri Tunga is their land and you don’t want to disturb them in their natural habitat. Oh and be careful for the flood!


Ytri Tunga in Iceland where you can find seals in their natural habitat. Wildlife photography.
Ytri Tunga

Stop 4: Reykjavík

Your final stop is Reykjavík and even though I’m more of a nature-kind of girl, I always do like to take a little city stroll, have a coffee or ice cream and go for a delicious dinner. Eiriksson Brasserie had the best truffle pasta and most delicious house mocktail and Kaffibrennslan was a cosy place to stop for coffee and pie.


I would not really recommend the camping sites in Reykjavik, but if you have to stay there, choose Reykjavik Eco Campsite. A good alternative can be Akranes Camping on the way from Snæfellsnes Peninsula to Reykjavík. Oddsson hotel or Room with a View hotel are good hotel options.


Day 9: Relax


Every trip (and certainly a busy road trip) should end with at least some relaxing time before going back home. If you have an afternoon flight, or your flight is on day 11 (even better), then consider the below options to spend your day.

Stop 1: Hallgrímskirkja

One of the most famous spots in Reykjavík is the Hallgrímskirkja. Standing almost 75m (246 feet) tall, it’s the largest church in Iceland. Taking the elevator to the top of the tower will give you amazing views of Reykjavík and if you’re lucky also of the Snæfellsjökull glacier.


Stop 2: Sky Lagoon

My favourite stop in Reykjavík because it is the perfect place to unwind after a busy trip (or to take a break from your busy trip if you decide to still do the Highlands afterwards). I know most people visit the Blue Lagoon, but in my opinion that one is too expensive and overrated. Sky Lagoon also has a much cheaper ritual package (which I can strongly recommend!), the geothermal lagoon is so much more cosy and is actually an infinity pool with views of the North Atlantic Ocean and it’s not as far from Reykjavík. Oh and the drinks at the bar are super reasonable in price compared to the rest of Iceland.



Sky Lagoon in Iceland with infinity pool spa sauna and panoramic view of the North Atlantic Ocean with a girl in it enjoying the view.
Sky Lagoon

Fun fact: The water in Iceland is so fresh that it’s not only drinkable, but after washing your face with it for a few days, your skin will start to feel softer and healthier. (No joke, I can testify to this!)



Stop 3: Returning your rental vehicle & going to the Airport

I hope you enjoyed your visit to this otherworldly island. If you haven’t gotten enough yet of Iceland, I can strongly recommend to add the Highlands to your itinerary! (See below for more information)



Add the Highlands to your itinerary


The highlands of Iceland are the largest area in Europe where nature is still untouched and you can experience otherworldly scenes. Located in the centre of the island, towering high above the scarcely inhabited coastline, the highlands are almost completely wild.


The landscapes are rough, but varied and immensely beautiful. If you have time left in Iceland or you just want to experience unspoiled nature, the highlands are a mandatory stop.


Orange mountains with two people on top in Iceland in the geothermal area of Hveradalir.

Day 1: Golden Circle


If you want to explore the highlands properly, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle and preferable a sturdy one. So after picking up your (new) vehicle in the neighbourhood of the airport, head East towards Selfoss from where you’ll start your journey inland. This first day will be quite touristy since you’ll be driving part of the Golden Circle, the loop most tourists in Iceland take. If you don’t like that, you can skip this day and go straight to the second, but make sure to start your journey very early in the morning then.


Stop 1: Selfoss

You will want to stack up on food and snacks and make sure your vehicle is fuelled up too. In the highlands, you won’t find any shops and even though there are a few small gas stations, driving in the highlands can be quite consuming, so better take precautions.


Stop 2: Kerið Crater

An eye-catching neon blue crater lake surrounded by red volcanic rock is what is waiting for you. The Kerið Crater is unique in its kind since they assume it wasn’t formed by an eruption (as most craters are) but simply because the magma chamber collapsed some 6,000 years ago.


Fun fact: Iceland has over 130 volcanoes, most of which are active with 18 that have already erupted since the settlement of Iceland around 871 C.E.


Stop 3: Hrunalaug hot spring

If you’re up for a swim, stop at Hrunalaug hot spring, one of the more beautiful natural hot springs. Don’t be fooled that this is one of those unspoiled gems though. Since it is located in the Golden Circle (the loop most tourists take in Iceland), it’s quite overrun.


Stop 4: Strokkur

Strokkur is Iceland’s most impressive active geyser, shooting vast jets of boiling water in the air up to 40 metres (130 feet) high. Don’t worry about missing this because it erupts every 6 to 10 minutes. Just make sure you’ve got your camera at hand! You can also visit Geysir, Iceland’s largest geyser, but your chances of seeing this one erupt are slim since it only happens every few years.


The Strokkur geyser in Iceland erupting.
Strokkur

Stop 5: Gullfoss Falls

Since you’re already in the neighbourhood, you might as well visit one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls. Gullfoss is part of the Hvítá river deriving from the Langjökull glacier and is divided in two stages with a total drop of 32m (105 feet).


Hotel Geysir is the perfect place to have dinner (reservation required!) and spend the night. Little Geysir is a very good cheaper alternative. Skjól Camping is a solid camping choice.



Day 2: Geothermal landscapes (or Mars?)


Your first encounter with the highlands. It might not seem as a long drive, but most of it will be on dirt roads, so make sure you calculate extra time for this! Depending on your vehicle, you will be able to drive between 20 and 70km/h (12-44 miles/h). Don’t hesitate to fuel up again before setting off!


Stop 1: Hveradalir Geothermal Valley

Hveradalir is one of the largest and most fascinating geothermal area in Iceland filled with hot springs. And it was definitely one of the most breathtaking stops of our Iceland trip because the landscape is just so surreal. You might ask yourself if you didn’t just land on a totally different planet.


The Hveradalir geothermal area in Iceland with a girl walking on orange mountains in between the sulfur gasses.
Hveradalir

Get my Ultimate Itinerary and Guide to Iceland to know which F-roads to take, have the exact coordinates of the best places to park, all the information on which hikes to do and all of this centralised in one interactive pdf that you can download on your computer or mobile phone.


Stop 2: Natural hot pools of Hveravellir

If you have time enough left to drive even deeper into the highlands, then Hveravellir can be a nice extra stop for the day. As one of the most dynamic geothermal fields in Iceland, it’s not only a great spot to soak and relax after an adventurous first day in the highlands, it’s also a beautiful sight to see the many different, vibrant colours of all the hot springs and smoking fumaroles.


Depending on where your end stop is, you could camp or overnight at Hveravellir or Kerlingarfjöll Ásgarður. If you’re still up to driving back, I would recommend to stay another night at Geysir Hotel or Skjól Camping since that is already on the way for your next destination.



Day 3: Rainbow mountains


Another day, another mind-blowing experience in the highlands.


Stop 1: Landmannalaugar

Your only stop for today, since there are plenty of options to spend time here and that epic day hike you were looking for is finally here to happen! Landmannalaugar is a geothermal oasis, famous for its colourful rhyolite mountains, geothermal hot springs and lava fields as a result of thousands of years of volcanic activity. A dream for the adventurous souls! Oh and at the end of the day, you can opt for a soak in the ‘People’s pool’, a naturally occurring hot spring around 36-40 degrees (97 to 104°F), if you don’t mind sharing it with a ton of other people.


Landmannalaugar the rainbow mountains of Iceland covered in snow and with wild river canyons.
Landmannalaugar

If you have energy left, I would recommend you to drive back already in the direction of the airport. Otherwise, you can stay in the Landmannalaugar hut or at their camping site (first-come first-served basis). Both however where not that attractive to me.



How to extend your Iceland road trip further

Iceland has an endless list of places that are well-worth visiting and that cannot all be seen over the course of two weeks. Some places have not yet even been discovered!


However, there is an extended list of places I visited that have all gotten a place in my heart and that I can now scratch happily from my photography bucket list. (Although, I will surely visit all of these places again in the near future!) I would love to share this list with you, but since these are one of the few places that are still off -the-beaten path, and I'm a firm believer of keeping these places in nature 'a secret' as long as possible, I will keep a little threshold in place. That is, I will only share these in my Ultimate Guide & Itinerary to Iceland together with my number one secret tip on how to avoid crowds even at the busiest of places.



Icelands best kept secrets


What I will do is share a few of my best tips with you on how to avoid tourists all together in Iceland. Iceland has become more and more touristy in the last few years, meaning that a lot of so-called hidden gems, are not at all hidden anymore and the well-known places are sometimes totally overrun.


There are however a few tips and tricks that will still get you to experience Iceland as if you were there all by yourself.


Off the beaten path hidden hot spring in Iceland with girl soaking under the waterfall and looking at the endless view.

Find those less touristy places

I won’t call it all hidden gems anymore, because I would just be lying, but luckily there are still places that are off-the-beaten path, such as some parts of the Highlands, some natural hot springs and more remote places that are not so easily found or accessible. A few of these can be found in my Ultimate Guide & Itinerary to Iceland.


Tips to find places like this yourself can be found in my free guide How to find unique places.

Choose the right time to visit

This really depends on your taste of course. During the summer, there will be more daylight hours to explore and the weather conditions are usually better, but the crowds will also be present due to those reasons.


During winter, there will be less tourists, chances of seeing the Northern Lights will be much higher and you could visit ice caves and glaciers, but the days become darker, some attractions are closed or unreachable and it gets colder (even though day temperatures don’t usually go below -1 degrees Celsius / 30 F°).


In shoulder season, crowds can also be avoided. Mid-April to Mid-June is when nature awakens and a few good deals can still be done. September to October is when Iceland’s cultural calendar comes to life and temperatures haven’t dropped drastically yet.


Getting up early or staying up late definitely helps to avoid the crowds as well. Most people or tour busses don't arrive before 10AM so if you get up at sunrise, you can be sure to just share the place with a few other people who are as crazy as you! (or me haha)


Hike

This is definitely one of the better tips I can give you. Every place that needs a hike to get there, will be less crowded for sure. Iceland has so many beautiful sceneries that can be reached by car, so most people don’t bother with the places that require a little effort. Good examples are included in my Ultimate Guide & Itinerary to Iceland.


Hidden waterfall in a cave with a girl standing underneath.


Iceland budget breakdown


Let me start by saying that this will not be your cheapest trip. Iceland is a quite expensive country and that hasn’t gotten any better the last couple of years. However, if you plan this trip ahead (as much as possible), you can definitely save money. Here’s what we paid in June 2022, with bookings almost a year in advance.


  • Camper van for 15 nights: €2285

  • Budget 4x4 for 4 days: €467

  • Fuel: €170 to fuel our 4x4 budget car and €512 for our camper van (both benzine and Diesel were priced around €2.56/L at the time).

  • Good & comfortable hotels: €160/night for good and comfortable hotels.

  • Camping sites: €16/person per night.

  • Groceries: €280 (Mostly vegetarian and basic supplies but lots of fresh fruit. Meat and fish are also quite expensive in the supermarkets, so it helped eating mainly vegetarian.)

  • Alcohol: €13 for a glass of prosecco, 12-20 for a bottle of wine, €4 for a beer in the store. (Alcohol can not be bought in the supermarket. You’ll need to visit special government stores for that, called Vinbudin.)

  • Restaurant: €35-45 for a main course


Fun fact: Until 1989, beer was illegal in Iceland. And until this day, there is not a single McDonald’s restaurant to be found on the island.


Leave no trace policy


The nature in Iceland is still really well preserved, so I would love to remind you to the leave no trace policy when you visit Iceland. 🙏

  • Be respectful and stay on the trails. Iceland’s climate makes it hard for anything to grow there, so make sure to not add to that challenge.

  • Do not approach or feed wildlife. Stay quiet en give them space.

  • Pack it in, pack it out. Or in other words, bring back whatever waste you brought with you or created during your trip.

  • Leave what you find. Picking up rocks, stones, sand, plants can be fun, but it can be harmful for the environment.

  • Be considered of other visitors. Even when you’re at a touristic spot, keep the noise down and always be kind and courteous.


Enjoy your trip!


And don’t hesitate to share your experience with me in the comments.

Or if you have questions, I’ll be happy to answer them!



Lots of love,

Ineke

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